So, I finished the Nohr path. I have no interest in playing hoshido and no means of playing the third route, so probably done with this game at least for now.
The gameplay/difficulty was a step up from awakening (which says almost nothing) and was enough for me to enjoy the game despite everything objectionable about it, including some of those 'optional' features that have real gameplay mechanics locked behind them.
On story: the hoshido/nohr route plots feel pretty half-assed and are generally unsatisfying; while the (fairly presictable/cliché) third route is clearly supposed to be the 'true end' that further encourages you to buy multiple copies of the game. For what it's worth, the professional manga author they brought in actually only wrote the original 500-page concept and wasn't involved after that. Also, much of the supports and third route were written by another writer whose previous work includes the highly-acclaimed senran kagura series (which explains some things...).
Now that that's over, I'd like to let you all know that there is
some hope for 'classic FE.'