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Ask a simple question, get a simple answer - mark 24 (READ THE OP)
- Thread starter haunter
- Start date
I'd say Starmie as well, but tht is mostly just because I like Starmie.
The best way is just to battle a lot on Shoddy or Wifi (Although I would personally recommend Wifi). another way, which is how most people get into battling, is to take and use a team from a good RMT, so that you know how it works and that it works. From there you can make changes based on how you like to play, or make a new one when you feel you understand the metagame a bit more.
The best way is just to battle a lot on Shoddy or Wifi (Although I would personally recommend Wifi). another way, which is how most people get into battling, is to take and use a team from a good RMT, so that you know how it works and that it works. From there you can make changes based on how you like to play, or make a new one when you feel you understand the metagame a bit more.
No, not at all. People still battle on the old simulators, even four generations on. Especially this one, because of its popularity. The games have also been released only in Japanese, so most of the players haven't moved yet. I know that I haven't, and don't plan to until the games are released in English. The only thing would be if you are just looking at getting into a metagame, then you may want to try the gen. 5 equivalent.
It can't outspeed Flygon if Flygon is running more than 208 Spe EVs, which most do (either Jolly max, Adamant max, or Adamant 208 to outspeed Jolly Gyarados).
A gyarados can not outspeed a ScarfGon after one Dragon Dance because max speed Gyara is slower than 252 Spe. Adamant Flygon. The main reason to run Jolly Gyara is to outspeed Jolteon after a drgon dance.
EDIT: Ninja'd
EDIT: Ninja'd
I managed to breed this Garchomp
His IV:
28 Hit points
31 Attack
31 Defense
x special attack
28 special Defense
31 Speed
Nature: Jolly
I want to use this moveset for him
Item: Leftovers
- Outrage
- Earthquake
- Fire fang
- Substitute
What should be his HP stat in order to get maximum benefit from both the move substitute and leftovers? (This Garchomp will be mainly used in the battle tower under a sandstorm, provided by Tyranitar or Hippowdon)
I want him to have max speed (252 EV) and a lot of attack
Can you help me?
Any suggestion?
His IV:
28 Hit points
31 Attack
31 Defense
x special attack
28 special Defense
31 Speed
Nature: Jolly
I want to use this moveset for him
Item: Leftovers
- Outrage
- Earthquake
- Fire fang
- Substitute
What should be his HP stat in order to get maximum benefit from both the move substitute and leftovers? (This Garchomp will be mainly used in the battle tower under a sandstorm, provided by Tyranitar or Hippowdon)
I want him to have max speed (252 EV) and a lot of attack
Can you help me?
Any suggestion?
Well you can always mix and match. I only saw a small amount of Chomp before he was banned, but I would have thought +Spe would make loads of sense, because you can then outspeed all base 100s. I'd use it.
This is not a question that I'm in dire need of an answer for, it's just something that I have some trouble understanding.
On all of Snorlax's sets, Thick Fat is the suggested ability. On the sets that carry Rest, this is understandable, because who cares about getting poisoned when you can easily heal it? As for the non-Resting sets, however, I don't understand why Thick Fat is supposedly better. Immunity gives Snorlax a free switch-in if you predict a Toxic, and it also allows Snorlax to not have to care one way or the other about Toxic Spikes. On a Snorlax that has no way to get rid of status, I think Immunity is a lot better, because Snorlax should be more concerned about being worn down easily by poisoning than Fire/Ice-type attacks that it can easily take anyway with how bulky it is on the Special side. So why is Thick Fat supposedly better on every Snorlax set?
On all of Snorlax's sets, Thick Fat is the suggested ability. On the sets that carry Rest, this is understandable, because who cares about getting poisoned when you can easily heal it? As for the non-Resting sets, however, I don't understand why Thick Fat is supposedly better. Immunity gives Snorlax a free switch-in if you predict a Toxic, and it also allows Snorlax to not have to care one way or the other about Toxic Spikes. On a Snorlax that has no way to get rid of status, I think Immunity is a lot better, because Snorlax should be more concerned about being worn down easily by poisoning than Fire/Ice-type attacks that it can easily take anyway with how bulky it is on the Special side. So why is Thick Fat supposedly better on every Snorlax set?
From the Analysis.
It's the Fire Resistance that makes Thick Fat so appealing. Trying to predict Toxic isn't reliable enough to warrant a free switch, and Toxic Spikes aren't that common.
252 Heatran Fire Blast vs. 0/252 Thick Fat Snorlax: 15.8% - 18.8%
252 Heatran Fire Blast vs. 0/252 Immunity Snorlax: 31.4% - 37.2%
Without a manner of healing, that margin is huge, and is the difference between Snorlax having a free switch and having to watch his step.
252 Heatran Fire Blast vs. 0/252 Thick Fat Snorlax: 15.8% - 18.8%
252 Heatran Fire Blast vs. 0/252 Immunity Snorlax: 31.4% - 37.2%
Without a manner of healing, that margin is huge, and is the difference between Snorlax having a free switch and having to watch his step.
If I have a kings rock attached, will the flinch affect only happen if I hit the opponent first?
Yes, like all flinches.
yeah lol flinches only work if you hit them first, they wont be flinched next turn or anything
This is sort of out there, but maybe someone knows the answer. Breloom recently got the ability Technician from B&W, and I noticed he has the move Wake-Up Slap, which is nomrally 60 BP, but doubles if the opponent is sleeping. So would Technician boost this, with STAB, and then it would double, giving it I believe 270 Power, or would it double, then get Stab boost, which I think puts it at 180?
Sometimes, while battling, if the opponent Pokemon's attack would not hit my Pokemon, I can get the messages "(Opponent)'s attack missed" or "(Own Pokemon) avoided the attack".
How does the 2nd message occur?
How does the 2nd message occur?
It is determined by the move. For instance, Razor Leaf is always evaded, whereas Tackle always misses. I guess that some attacks (think Earthquake) would sound stupid to 'miss', so they have to be 'evaded'.
ok so i have an important question.
i'm about to purchase a new wireless router (about time!), and i don't know what kind of router should i get? i want it for my DS.
what should i look for in a wireless router? i know there was a link here about routers and shit but i' too lazy to look for it here.
i'm about to purchase a new wireless router (about time!), and i don't know what kind of router should i get? i want it for my DS.
what should i look for in a wireless router? i know there was a link here about routers and shit but i' too lazy to look for it here.
Sorry, that doesn't seem to answer my question...
But I have noticed that I would see the message "(Own Pokemon) avoided the attack" when the opponent Pokemon uses moves that have less than 100% accuracy, such as Rock Slide (90% accuracy). And that occurs while none of the Pokemon in battle have accuracy/evasion modifications.
I think I get your question now. A Pokemon evading an attack has nothing to do with evasion boosts, or even to do with the pokemon being attacked. It is only to do with the move used, which, if it fails, has a pre-arranged way of failing: missing, or being evaded. At some point in the move being made, in the game's programming, it can either hit or miss. If it hits, everything is fine, but if it misses, either message can come up, depending on the move. They are essentially interchangable. On the chance that the defender did have evasion boosts, it would be more likely to 'miss', which would result, depending on the move used, as either being evaded or missing, but would not influence whether it would be one or the other.
I may have just missed the point again, but that sounds like what you were asking.
I may have just missed the point again, but that sounds like what you were asking.
The best routers from Nintendo Ds are 802.11b range. They need the least configuration and work 100%. Get a netgear one but check what model/type it is. any of these 3 are cool:
802.11b
802.11g
802.11n